As the annual wine harvesting season gets underway in Austria, locals and visitors alike are welcoming the return of Sturm, a sweet and semi-fermented alcoholic drink that serves as a staple of the autumn season. The beverage, which reflects the Austrian affinity for seasonal and locally sourced produce, is crafted from the very first grapes harvested of the year.
To understand the cultural and practical significance of Sturm, wine expert Stylianos Stavridis, the founder of Exclusive Wine Experiences in Vienna, shared insights into what makes this seasonal drink unique. Technically defined as partially fermented grape must—the juice obtained from squeezed grapes—Sturm is known as Federweißer in Germany. In Austria, the drink is legally protected and must be made exclusively from locally harvested and processed grapes. It is permitted for sale between August 1st and December 31st of its vintage year, provided it remains in an active state of fermentation. Producers are allowed to temporarily halt this fermentation process during production, resuming it prior to the beverage's market release.
The name Sturm, which translates to "storm" in German, is a direct reference to the drink's cloudy, turbulent, and constantly fermenting appearance. Because the yeast inside the beverage is actively converting sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, Sturm is characterized by a sweet, tart, and effervescent profile. Stavridis warns first-time drinkers that this pleasant taste can make the drink somewhat deceptive. Although it easily goes down like ordinary grape juice, it contains both alcohol and active yeast. Consuming it in large quantities can lead to headaches and digestive discomfort. Furthermore, the rapid, ongoing fermentation process means that if Sturm is sealed with a tight cork, the pressure from the carbon dioxide can cause the bottle to explode. Because of the active yeast, the drink cannot be stored long-term and must be consumed within just a few days to prevent spoiling.
Sturm is available in white, red, and rosé varieties, and it is traditionally paired with hearty Austrian cuisine. While Austrian law permits its sale through the end of December, the active Sturm season traditionally peaks in the autumn, winding down around the feast of Martini on November 11th. Throughout this period, the beverage is served in a wide range of venues, including standard bars and restaurants. However, the most traditional setting to experience Sturm is a Heuriger. These classic Austrian taverns are typically family-owned wineries with attached eateries that serve wine produced directly on-site. Visitors looking for an authentic experience can find a high concentration of Heuriger in Döbling, Vienna's 19th district, during the harvest season.
The drink also carries its own unique cultural etiquette. When sharing a glass of Sturm, Austrians traditionally bypass the standard toast of "Prost" (cheers) in favor of saying "Mahlzeit" (enjoy your meal). This custom persists because Sturm is not yet legally or culturally classified as a finished wine. Stavridis notes that international guests trying the beverage for the first time are often surprised by its refreshing nature, particularly the striking balance between its sweetness and high acidity.
Stavridis himself has a deep connection to the Austrian wine scene, despite not being a native. Originally from Athens, Greece, he relocated to Austria in 2012 to pursue a Master's degree at Vienna's University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, known as BOKU. His introduction to the local wine culture began during his first year of study, when he took a part-time job at a cozy wine bar in Vienna's 1st district. This experience sparked a lasting passion for Austrian wines. From 2013 to 2017, Stavridis worked for a company that specialized in organizing wine tours across the country, while simultaneously undertaking formal wine education at the prestigious Austrian Wine Academy. After working at a winery in the Carnuntum region in 2018, he launched his own business at the beginning of 2019, focusing on hosting specialized wine tastings in Vienna for international visitors.
So perhaps it's no surprise that their drinking habits follow a similar pattern. When the new wine harvesting season rolls around in September, it is customary to drink a beverage made from the first grapes harvested.
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